Swirl Pot

As I now have my swirl pot, I removed the boot box today to see where I could put it and it seems a little large to go anywhere. Have asked Westfield where to stick it (!?)- they had told me to fit it to the tank frame with rubber bobbins, but the frame doesn't seem wide enough at the back. I will see what they say next.

20A fuse fitted in the fan circuit (factory confirmed the fan pulls more than 15 amps on start up). So far, so good. Left sidelight and left rear light did stop working though - fuse 1 (10A) blown - I must have shorted out something while I was tidying up the bird's nest behind the dash . .

Wired in a starter button and relay, and ignition toggle switch in place of the key on the column (I just cut the wires and soldered in appropriate extension wiring so I could still use the connector on the loom). Both much easier to get to than the key when you are strapped in with a harness. The starter button is the same as the four menu buttons for the Dash 2 and is directly below them, the toggle switch was added next to the other switches in the middle of the dash.

As you can no doubt see, the hole for the headlamp switch is slightly too large, so the switch has moved out of alignment with the fog lamp switch (a result of over enthusiastic dremelling!) Will fix this with an aluminum plate behind the dash at a later date

I also wired in the FIA Master switch (essential at the track so you can quickly disconnect the battery and kill everything, should there be a problem), which necessitated switching the battery around (which was good, as the terminals were very close to the steering rack when it was the other way round) and fitting a six foot +ve cable (found on Amazon intended for a boat battery). The 4 foot cable supplied with the kit was just long enough to go from the switch to the starter.

There is a resistor which needs to be wired to the switch so that, when it is switched off, the charge in the alternator has somewhere to go (to earth), otherwise the kill switch will kill the alternator. Very important the resistor is wired to take the +ve feed from the starter side when the switch is operated, NOT the battery side (unless you want to have a melt down when you switch the car off).

Everything works great. Start sequence is FIA on, ignition on, start - perfect for the track. I defy anybody to start it without instructions (or labels on the switches). Just as well really, seeing as I have bypassed the key switch.


I also installed a permanent connector for a battery tender while I was at it. The plug is situated on the underside of the chassis, so should be relatively easy to get to (it has a rubber cover to protect it from the elements).

While I was fiddling around with the dash, I moved the DASH2 up as much as the mounting holes would allow. Now I can nearly see the idiot lights at the bottom. Still needs moving up a bit, will have to elongate the holes. Can't move it too high, though, as the shift lights will be obscured.

I STILL have the diffuser to fit and to adjust the camber. Then I need to take the car and sidebars to a (not so) local performance shop to have the bars adjusted to fit the dropped floor.

No solution for the pinking. The factory are supposed to speak to Omex to see if they have a solution (such as a summer map). I could add octane boost to the gas, but that is a pain. Sill pinking today (well it was over 110 degrees), also found out that my toes get fried iff I drive in flip flops (probably not the best choice of footwear), I must remember to fit the panel that covers the pedals, and will keep out some of the engine heat from the footwell. Each time the fan comes on (thanks to the new fuse) I get a blast of 200 degree air over my feet)!